There are some desserts that feel like a secret handshake between you and a French grandmother. Cherry Clafoutis is one of them. I first fell in love with this rustic custard tart in a tiny village in the Loire Valley, where the baker told me the secret was to never, ever pit the cherries. “The stone,” she said, tapping her nose, “it gives the almond flavor.” I thought she was crazy until I took my first bite. The tart cherries, suspended in a silky, flan-like batter, released a subtle, nutty pe